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Hampi

Hazara Rama Temple, Hampi, Karnataka

We spent four days in Hampi, led by Professor Srikumar Menon, who is a specialist in megalithic architecture and rock art of the prehistoric period. His immense knowledge gave the group valuable insights into how the temple stones were quarried and used to build the royal capital of the legendary Vijayanagara Kingdom between the mid-14th and mid-16th centuries.

Lotus Mahal, Hampi, Karnataka

Founder of the DHF, Dr. Helen Philon, gave us a tour of the Elephant Stables and Lotus Mahal (pictured above), illustrating how the decoration and structure of these monuments reflected interchanges – through marriage, diplomacy, trade, and more – across the Vijayanagara–Bahmani borders. At the Queen’s Bath, we considered her proposal that the brilliant stuccowork found there may date to after 1565, following the defeat of the Vijayanagara kings, when most scholars believe the site had been left in ruins and abandoned.

Onake Kindi, Temba, Karnataka

On day three, we left the bustling sites behind and headed into the countryside to visit Onake Kindi. Walking through rice paddies, we reached a trail to several hilltop caves where paintings of various animal and human figures can be found. Professor Menon explained the imagery typical of this period, dated approximately 1500 BCE. Though similar paintings are found at other sites throughout India, he emphasised the difficulties in interpreting these mysterious depictions.

Gagan Mahal, Anegundi, Karnataka

In the afternoon, Ms. Pratima Rao, Manager of the DHFI, introduced us to the sensitively restored Gagan Mahal at Anegundi, a 16th–17th century palace gateway that now welcomes visitors and hosts events, which help fund its upkeep. This site was restored and is maintained by the DHF as part of the Government of Karnataka’s ‘Adopt a Monument’ scheme.

To learn more about Hampi Vijayanagara, explore our guidebook on the DHF Bookstore.

Kasivisvesvara Temple, Lakkundi, Karnataka

The following day, we left Hampi and travelled to Lakkundi and Sudi in the Gadag district. Here, Dr. Kailash Rao introduced students to the latest technologies for scanning and mapping temples to reveal how these buildings were designed and constructed. This information helps guide decisions on how best to conserve them. On site, we examined how projections on the exteriors were proportioned, cut, placed, and carved with the temple’s iconographic program. Author Anirudh Kanisetti complemented this technical insight with a broader context of the Chalukyan period, exploring royal and elite patronage of temple architecture and the ambitious claims made in their inscriptions.

Lathe-turned pillars in the inner mandapa at the Kasivisvesvara Temple, Lakkundi, Karnataka 

Nagakunda Stepwell, Sudi, Karnataka

In Sudi, the DHF is restoring the Nagakunda Stepwell, with support from Gandipet Welfare Society (GWS) – an NGO for zero-waste – and the Government of Karnataka. The stepwell is a fascinating example of architecture, with walls articulated with a series of projections much like those found in temple architecture. It will soon be functional, bringing water to the surrounding area, and a landscaped garden will be created, reviving the site as a shared community space.

Learn more about the DHF’s restoration and water rejuvenation of the Nagakunda Stepwell.

Hirebenakal, Karnataka

Before travelling south towards the Hoysala temples, we stepped once more into the distant past at Hirebenakal. Professor Menon led us on a day-long hike to another dramatic hilltop setting. Here, we saw megalithic structures where the bodies of the deceased were interred and burned. Massive slabs of stone used to make these constructions were apparently loosened from the surrounding boulders by use of fire, but how the slabs were then raised and balanced on one another remains a mystery. This truly impressive site is being considered for UNESCO protection.

Chennakeshava Temple, Belur, Karnataka

After a day’s rest and a visit to the Dodda Gadavalli Temple in in Hasan, we travelled on to explore the magnificent Hoysala temples in Belur, Halebidu and Somanathapura. Our brilliant guide through these sites was Kamalika Bose, an urban conservationist, curator and educator. The richly carved exteriors of the temples include depictions of the gods on the upper levels, and bands of dancers, soldiers, elephants and stories from the Mahabharata and Ramayana on the walls below. Kamalika, along with DHF co-founder Dr. George Michell, has written our popular guidebook about this part of Karnataka. It is available as a paperback or e-book on the DHF website.

Discover The Hoysala Legacy: Belur, Halebidu, Somanathapura

We look forward to bringing you the latest updates about our ongoing projects and initiatives across the Deccan region of India.

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